Blog Post · Crochet · Free Pattern

Rainbows and Cupcakes Beanie

This pattern originated when one of my friends wanted a beanie to suit her and her two young nieces aged 7 and 8. The brief was colourful, rainbows and cupcakes. After trawling pinterest for inspiration nothing was really caught my eye at all, but I did come across two blanket stitches that I immediately knew the girls would love. These stitches were the cupcake stitch and heart stitch, and these formed the basis of the hat. Today I am sharing the final pattern with you! This pattern makes for the perfect stash buster. You can pretty much use any combination of colours for this pattern, and you do not need a lot of each colour!

The Finished Beanie!

The beanie is available on my Ravelry page as an ad free PDF. There is a picture tutorial through the trickier steps of the pattern along with two different ways to work the pattern up. The method on the blog is worked in two parts and a bonus bottom up method is given in the PDF file.

Meet the stitches!

The first stitch featured is Cupcake stitch. I found this stitch on Whilma’s blog. It was initially a blanket border but I wanted to make it an integral part of the beanie. To do this two layers of the beanie needed to e worked concurrently, a base layer and an outer layer of the beanie.

Wilma has done a video tutorial on cupcake stitch on her website. Its worth watching the video to learn how to crochet cupcakes!

The other featured stitch is heart stitch. there are lots of variations on heart stitch. There is a good tutorial by bhooked crochet with the video tutorial below.

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The pattern is worked in two sections that are joined at the end.

I have written the pattern as a child size (4-12 years approx) and Adult size below, but I have given scaling instructions.

Colour Key

  • Colour 1: Red, 5m [7m] approx
  • Colour 2: Orange, 6m [8m]approx
  • Colour 3: Yellow, 7m [9m]approx
  • Colour 4: Green,8m [10m]approx
  • Colour 5: Dark Blue, 10m [14m]approx
  • Colour 6: Purple, 12m [16m]approx
  • Colour 7: Green, 62m [76m]approx
  • Colour 8: Red, 16m [20m]approx
  • Colour 9: Blue Border, 12m [14m]approx
  • Colour 10: White, 10m [12m]approx
  • Colour 11:  Pink, 5m [7m]approx
  • Colour 12: Brown, 14m [18m]approx
  • Colour 13: Light Blue, 28m [34m]approx
  • Colour 14: White, 51m [60m]approx
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My advice:

At a minimum you want 6 colours for the rainbow for the top of the head. I would recommend Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue and Purple. 

The heart band needs a main colour and contrast colour for the hearts. As you can see, there are many options for this. Combination.

The cupcake band needs 5 colours. You need a bold stripe colour. I used dark blue. A light contrast colour, I used pale blue. Main frosting colour, I have used white which works with a contrast frosting colour (Pink). The last colour you need will be the cake colour. 

The ribbing band at the bottom can be any colour.

What you need

  • You will need a 5 mm hook, or one to match your yarn. There will be sections where two strands of yarn are used, others will be two layers to make up the warmth.
  • Gauge: 4”=14DC at ½ “ tall.
  • The adult ribbed band should be 2” across 2” up and should be 10 rows. 
  • Yarn Needle
  • Pom-pom (Optional)

How to Adjust sizing:

There are some great pages around on how to size beanies. Such as this site. Pay attention to the crown diameter that matches your size here. It is crucial to ensure your size fits.

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I have written the pattern in two sizes: Child and Adult.

This pattern is made both top down and bottom up in Method 1. These sections are then combined at the end. I have also provided a second version that is only worked bottom up, Method 2. 

To add more length to the beanie, increase the foundation for the ribbing band and add extra rows into the base.

The most important step is to make sure that you keep the pattern working in multiples of 6 for the bottom section stitch pattern to work. (60, 66, 72, 78 stitches circumference in the body)

If you need to increase the number of rows in the rainbow flat circle section you have two options: add more shades to the rainbow, increase the smaller red/orange row repetitions as these are less noticeable under the pompom.  

You can also adjust hook size down to 4/4.5mm when you add 6 stitches incase this will make the beanie too large.

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Stitches:

  • This pattern is written in US terms
  • SL: Slip Stitch
  • SC: Single Crochet
  • HDC: Half Double Crochet
  • DC: Double Crochet
  • HDCINC: Two HDC in same stitch
  • DCINC: Two DC in same stitch
  • CH: Chain
  • Standing DC: Start DC from a slip knot
  • Standing HDC Start HDC from a slip knot
  • Standing SC Start SC from a slip knot 
    Note: If you are not comfortable with standing stitches, they can be substituted with CH from a slip stitch join.
  • DC5 together: Yarn over (YO), insert hook in next stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook, repeat in the next 4 stitches, YO and draw through all 6 remaining loops of the hook
  • Standing DC5 Together: DC5 together from a slip knot, similar to a standing DC.
  • Start with a slip knot, Yarn over (YO), insert hook in next stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook, repeat in the next 4 stitches, YO and draw through all 6 remaining loops of the hook.
  • DC Cluster:  Yarn over (YO), insert hook in next stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook. YO insert hook into same stitch, TO and pull up a loop, TO and draw through two loops on hook. YO and draw through all three remaining loops on the hook.
  • Zipper Join Stitch

Top Section:

This is to build the crown diameter section of your beanie. The “T” denotes a row in the top section. This is worked using two strands of 8 Ply yarn  (ie Stallion yarn from Spotlight or Aldi Yarn) 

Child:

  • T1: Colour 1:In a magic ring, DC 11, Pull tight, SL into top of first DC. Fasten off and weave in ends. [11]
  • T2: Colour 2: Join using a standing DC into any stitch from R1. DCINC in each stitch around.Fasten off and weave in ends.[22]
  • T3:Colour 3: Join using a standing DC into any stitch from R2. *DCINC, DC*  around.Fasten off and weave in ends.[33]
  • T4:Colour 4: Join using a standing DC into any stitch from R3. *DCINC, DC,DC*  around.Fasten off and weave in ends.[44]
  • T5:Colour 5: Join using a standing DC into any stitch from R4. *DCINC, DC, DC, DC*  around.Fasten off and weave in ends.[55]
  • T6:Colour 6: Join using a standing DC into any stitch from R5. *DCINC, DC, DC, DC, DC*  around. Fasten off and weave in ends.[66]
    At the end of the top section, the circle diameter must match the crown diameter from the sizing table.

Adult:

  • T1: Colour 1:In a magic ring, DC 12, Pull tight, SL into top of first DC. CH1 [12]
  • T2: Colour 1,  DCINC in each stitch around.Fasten off and weave in ends.[24]
  • T3: Colour 2: Join using a standing DC into any stitch from R2. *DCINC, DC*  around.Fasten off and weave in ends.[36]
  • T4:Colour 3: Join using a standing DC into any stitch from R3. *DCINC, DC,DC*  around.Fasten off and weave in ends.[48]
  • T5:Colour 4: Join using a standing DC into any stitch from R4. *DCINC, DC, DC, DC*  around.Fasten off and weave in ends.[60]
  • T6:Colour 5: Join using a standing DC into any stitch from R5. *DCINC, DC, DC, DC, DC*  around. Fasten off and weave in ends.[72] 
  • T7:Colour 6: Join using a standing DC into any stitch from R6. DC around. Fasten off and weave in ends.[72]
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Bottom Section Band:

It is really important that you match the number of Rows here with the number of stitches in the final row of the Top section (T6). You can vary the number of Chains in round one to make a thinner or thicker band. I worked the band with two strands of yarn as my 8ply was very thin. The “R” denotes a row in the ribbed band.

Ribbed Band Child:

  • In Colour 14, Foundation: In band colour Chain 7.
  • R1: SC in the second CH from the hook. SC in the next 5 stitches. CH1 and turn. [6SC]
  • R2-66: in back loop only SC across. CH1 and Turn.
    If you made the top section shorter or increased the stitches make sure the rows match the number of stitches in row T6. 
  • Join the band together by using the zipper or single crochet join method. Use the loop already on your hook to start. Do not fasten off.

Ribbed Band Adult:

  • In Colour 14, Foundation: In band colour Chain 10.
  • R1: SC in the second CH from the hook. SC in the next 8 stitches. CH1 and turn. [9SC]
  • R2-7: in back loop only SC across. CH1 and Turn.
    If you made the top section shorter or increased the stitches make sure the rows match the number of stitches in row T6. 
  • Join the band together by using the zipper or single crochet join method. Use the loop already on your hook to start. Do not fasten off.
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Base:

The “B” denotes a row in the base section.
We start with colour 14. Stitches [child,adult]

  • B1: SC in the end of each row of the band. SL into first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends. [66, 72]
    Note, for the cupcake layer we will only use one strand of yarn. This section will be done in two layers.
  • B2: In Colour 9, Join into SL stitch of B1. CH1, SC in each stitch around. Fasten off and weave in ends. [66,72SC]
  • B3: This row is worked in the front loop of B2 only. We are building the cupcake. Join colour 12 to a stitch near the band join with a standing DC. DC in same stitch, DC in next stitch, DCINC in next stitch, CH1 * SK3, DCINC, DC, DCINC, CH1* 10 times around. SL into standing DC. Fasten off and weave in ends.
  • B4: This row is worked in back loop only of B2. Join colour 12 and stitch around with a standing DC. DC in BLO around, SL into first stitch. Do not fasten off. Save loop with a stitch marker. [66,72DC]
  • B5: This row is in colour 11. It is worked through both the FLO of B3 and of B4 where required. Join yarn to the first DC of a cluster from round B2 (FLO) with a standing SC. SC FLO in next 4DC. In CH1 space of B2 and the FLO matching DC from B4 mke one SC. See image below. *SC in FLO of the next 5 DC of round B3. In CH1 space of B3 and skipping 5 stitches in B4 make one SE* Repeat around. Fasten off and weave in ends. [66,72SC]
  • B6: Using the loop left over from round B4 (colour 13), CH2 (Does not count). DC in each stitch around. SL into the CH2. Fasten off and weave in ends. Note every 6 DC will be BLO as the front loop will have been used in round B5.
  • B7:Using colour 10. This row will be worked into the back loop from B2. Make a standing DC5 together in the first 5 DC of round B. *CH6, DC5 Together* 10 times. CH6, SL int the top of the first DC5 together. Fasten off and weave in ends. [ 11, 12 cupcakes]
  • B8: Using colour 9  (the same colour from round B2). This row will be worked around the CH6 from B7 and into both loops of the DC from round B6 shown in the image below.  Join with a standing SC around a CH6 into any DC of round B6. SC in each stitch around. Each CH6 space will have 6 SC worked into it. After 6 SC skip around the DC5 cluster in B7. Fasten off and weave in ends. [66,72 SC]
  • B9: This row is the first row for the heart band. Note, for the heart layer, we are back to using two strands of yarn if required Colour 7. Join yarn to any stitch of B8 using a standing DC . DC in each stitch around, SL into first stitch. CH1. [66, 72 DC]
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  • B10: SC in each stitch around. SL into first stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.[66SC]
  • B11: Using colour 8. Attach in any stitch Ch2 (counts as 1st dc of 1st cl), DC in same stitch CH2, 1 cl in same st. *Ch2, skip 5 sts, (1 cl, ch2, 1 cl) in next st* Repeat 10 times. CH2 SL into first heart. Fasten off and weave in ends [11, 12 Hearts]
  • B12:  Join colour 7 yarn with a standing HDC to the 2nd stitch of the 5 stitches skipped in B11. Make sure you work around the CH2 from row B11. HDC in 3rd and 4th skipped stitches. *Ch2, skip next cl, 1 sc in next ‘ch2’ space, ch2, skip next cl. 1 hdc in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th skipped sts from the previous row, working around the ‘ch2’. * repeat 10 times. skip next cl, 1 sc in next ‘ch2’ space, ch2, skip next cl. SL into standing HDC. CH1. 
  • B13: CH2, DC in the top of the first 3 HDC. *1DC in CH2 space from B12, 1DC in next stitch, 1DC in CH2 space, DC in the top of the three HDC from B11* Repeat 10 times. 1DC in CH2 space from B12, 1DC in next stitch, 1DC in CH2 space SL into the top of the first DC. 
    The base is now complete for the child size. If you want extra height to the beanie add rows here and to the ribbing. 
    Adult Size continue to B14.
  • B14: CH2, DC around. SL into first DC.
    Adult base is now complete. If you want extra height to the beanie add rows here and to the ribbing. 
  • Join the base to the top section using the zipper join. Make sure the pattern faces out.
  • Sew on a pompom if desired.

I really hope you enjoyed this pattern. For a photo tutorial you can find the ad free PDF on my raverly store. I can’t wait to the hats you work up so please don’t forget to tag @crafty_commuter in all your pictures! 

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