In Australia we are in the run into summer, although this year with La Nina this weekend is feeling reminiscent of winter rather then mid spring. For Australian summers it was almost a childhood rite of passage to have water balloon fights to cool down on those 40 degrees Celsius plus days. Pegging latex waterfilled balloons at your siblings and friends filled about 20 minutes of fun followed by seemingly hours of scouring for the latex pieces of bust balloons, which would turn up weeks and months later in the back yard.
15 years or so later we are more environmentally conscious, which is why I love the concept of re-useable water balloons. Not only can the game continue for a much longer time, you only need one set of balloons and no longer use non-recyclable one-use plastics.
There are quite a few different variations of re useable water bombs out there now with varying levels of complexity.
Not all versions rely on a skill like crochet or knitting, for example the sponge water bombs by our family of seven.
For crochet water balloons there are already some patterns out there, which use bulky to very bulky yarn, my favourite of these is this pattern by left in knots.
While I love this pattern it relies on some bulky chenille yarn, that is almost impossible to find easily within Australia. It also gives some fairly large water balloons, which don’t suit younger players.
Today I am presenting a variation of the well explored water balloon pattern to suit easy to purchase yarn in Australia. This yarn is a very light Weight 4 “Bulky” yarn. The polyester chenille absorbs and holds water well, and is perfect for water fights.
This pattern works up really quickly. You should have a balloon in around 20 minutes.
Materials Needed
- 6mm Crochet Hook, Note gauge in this pattern is not important. your hook should match your yarn.
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Markers
- Chenille Yarn, 25 m per balloon, (approx. 4 balloons per ball)
Stitches Needed:
| Stitch (US/UK) | US Terminology | UK Terminology |
| MC | Magic Circle | Magic Ring |
| CH | Chain | Chain |
| SC/DC | Single Crochet | Double Crochet |
| HDC/HTR | Half Double Crochet | Half Treble Crochet |
| SL | Slip Stitch | Slip Stitch |
| DEC | Half Double Crochet decrease over two stitches | Half Treble Crochet decrease over two stitches |
The Pattern
US Terminology
CH2/CH1 at end of each row are not included in stitch count.
R1: In a MC, CH1, 9HDC. SL into first HDC. CH2. [9]
R2: 2HDC in each stitch around. SL into first HDC. CH2. [18]
R3: 2HDC in each stitch around. SL into first HDC. CH2. [36]
R4-6: HDC in each stitch around. SL into first HDC. CH2. [36]
R7: DEC around. SL into first DEC. CH2. [18]
R8: DEC around. SL into first DEC. CH1. [18]
R9: 2SC in each stitch around. SL into first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.
UK Terminology
CH2/CH1 at end of each row are not included in stitch count.
R1: In a MC, CH1, 9HTR. SL into first HTR. CH2. [9]
R2: 2HTR in each stitch around. SL into first HTR. CH2. [18]
R3: 2HTR in each stitch around. SL into first HTR. CH2. [36]
R4-6: HTR in each stitch around. SL into first HTR. CH2. [36]
R7: DEC around. SL into first DEC. CH2. [18]
R8: DEC around. SL into first DEC. CH1. [18]
R9: 2DC in each stitch around. SL into first DC. Fasten off and weave in ends.
I hope you enjoy this quick pattern as much as I did, learning to adapt thinner yarn into a similar pattern as seen with the thicker, US yarns.
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